Even though "Phantom Thread" is technically a work of fiction, it is loosely based on the British born real life designer Charles James. So this is fiction, but also based on some fact as well. What makes this different than other films about fashion designers is the fastidious, but odd designer this film centers around.
Set in the glamour of 1950's post-war London, renowned dressmaker Reynolds Woodcock (Daniel Day-Lewis) and his sister Cyril (Lesley Manville) are at the center of British fashion, dressing royalty--Countess Henrietta Harding (Gina McKee), movie stars, heiresses, socialites, debutants and dames with the distinct style of The House of Woodcock. Women come and go through Woodcock's life, providing the confirmed bachelor with inspiration and companionship, until he comes across a young, strong-willed, manipulative woman, Alma (Vicky Krieps), who soon becomes a fixture in his life as his muse and lover. Once controlled and planned, he finds his carefully tailored life disrupted by love.
Others to round out the cast are Sue Clark as Biddy, Joan Brown as Nana, Harriet Leitch as Pippa, Dinah Nicholson as Elsa, Camilla Rutherford as Johanna, Philip Franks as Peter Martin, Brian Gleeson as Dr. Robert Hardy, George Glasgow as Nikki Angus-Campbell and Harriet Sansom Harris as Barbara Rose.
This was directed by one of the most quirky of filmmakers Paul Thomas Anderson ("Hard Eight" '96, "Boogie Nights" '97, "Magnolia" '99, "Punch-Drunk Love" '02, "There Will Be Blood" '07, "The Master" '12, "Inherent Vice" '14) plus shorts, video shorts and TV. Since Anderson also writes what he directs, this film being of no exception, I feel it gives him a leg up on knowing how to manipulate his actors to woo them to do what they can do with their respective characters. His trademark is the quirkiness and oddity of the characters he writes about which allows his characters to come across meatier than a lot of characters in most Hollywood formulaic films. Both the characters Day-Lewis and Krieps play often banter with each other so the audience feels as though one of the characters is awful, than the other is. Soon afterwards, it truly becomes difficult to feel sorry for either character--since they both have extreme issues--deceit, selfishness, manipulation, and anger. Although this screenplay was delineated well, it had a couple of slow areas, mostly near the beginning, that a slightly shorter running time could've remedied. Once the story got going, the script soared. This film was phenomenally acted and directed, and even though the story was a bit of a downer, it was well crafted. This happens to be Daniel Day-Lewis' last film--he is retiring. He claims that he hadn't considered retirement before making this film, but that this character was so depressing, it made it extremely difficult to make and get through. Who knows if he won't come back to films after a hiatus. The costumes in this were beautifully designed by Mark Bridges and will undoubtedly be receive an Oscar nod. These fashion designs were absolutely incredible, and should be recognized.
This , as with most Anderson films, is not for the mass audience appeal and I believe Anderson strives for it to be that way. He is a true artist and really isn't in it for the money as much as for the privilege of being able to entertain his audiences with something quirky, meaty and obscure.
Out of 4 Stars: 3.5 Rated: R 130mins.
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